Tomorrow we set sail for French Polynesia after three weeks in the Galapagos. The forecast is good for a 20 day trip. This, of course assumes we manage the “leaving” bureaucracy! And yet another boat inspection, this time to check for baby tortoises and drugs. Do not get me wrong the officials are all very polite, it just doesn’t happen like this anywhere else.
Stuart Dawson has joined us for the trip so we have a “Team Pacific” which is great news.
We have re provisioned at the local market. The pricing still remains a mystery or maybe a “dark art” and most things seem to cost a dollar. If we look a little perplexed we just get a bit more produce and it still costs a dollar. Bananas are virtually free so we have two large hands of bananas for a dollar. Sadly no Branston pickle or indeed any decent pickle. I suspect we will have to learn to live without it for sometime.
Our cobbler cum sail maker has come up trumps and the code zero has been mended, checked and re furled. This time we shared the football pitch with a construction lorry.
We have had a great time in the Galapagos but we will really remember the Galapagos because of the animals – they have been fantastic. The fish market at Santa Cruz is full on entertainment. The big, very fat sea lion just reminds you of a Labrador – very, very greedy and always in the way. I thought iguanas were vegetarian but clearly not all. Although the pelicans are very keen, but the heron with his evil sharp pointy beak is king. The frigate birds are just shameless and have no manners hence the plastic screen defences.
These guys can fillet fish at speed. We, of course have not purchased any fish as with Stuart on board we are completely confident of catching are own. In anticipation we have purchased the white wine to complement the fish as even on passage, fish really does need some white wine!
I have awarded myself a “I love boobies t shirt” as a souvenir!
What can I say…. For us, on a sailing yacht, Galapagos is a bureaucratic nightmare most of which we still do not really understand. A permit here, a permit there; a few more dollars for something or other; restrictions, rules; and plenty of waiting around for something or someone! Today we had the cheese, we had just bought in Santa Cruz photographed before we boarded a local speedboat – why we don’t know? We can only assume it is a game designed to deliver some more dollars, keep people employed and enhance the eco marketing credentials of the Galapagos – but it might just be bureaucrats completely out of control.
But you cannot help being charmed by the wildlife. Where else in the world will you climb out of the dinghy and have to step over sea lions, and iguanas and going for walk navigate around giant tortoises? These guys know they are in charge, and we have to walk around them, but they do let you come incredibly close. On the boat at anchor we have pelicans diving, the sweetest little penguins, sea lions and black tipped sharks just metres away. I am not sure who eats who but it all seems to work.
We have visited three islands – San Cristobal, Isabella and Santa Cruz. Isabella is our favourite being more relaxed and has a better anchorage. We have seen all three boobies – blue footed, red footed and Nascar’s and definitely earned the right to wear the “I love boobies t-shirt.” We were lucky enough to see the blue footed boobies dancing which is the mating ritual and very comical. We have had some amazing snorkelling and the highlight must be swimming with rays and giant turtles. On the way to the snorkelling spots we were also lucky enough to see jumping rays – another mating ritual, and the blows and fins of fin whales.
The islands are volcanic and it does make for dramatic scenery. The very dark tangled rocks against the bright turquoise water is spectacular. We visited the Sierra Negra which is still an active volcano and has one of the largest craters in the world. We have been on push bikes and did an “only downhill” bike ride on San Cristobal. This sounds a bit slack but the heat is draining and quite frankly the bikes had very dodgy gears and were fit for downhill only. The ladies, Helen, Moira and I biked to the “Wall of Tears” and this is uphill but we did see wild giant tortoises which is really special on the way. The wall of tears is a wall 100m long and 7m high. It was built by convicts from the penal colony and served no real purpose except punishment.
The place is extremely clean and we have seen none of the dreadful plastic waste that has been on other islands. There seems to be no single use plastic cups or plates, no plastic straws and even in the supermarket no plastic bags for vegetables. It can be done.
Our friend Helen Phillips has been in Galapagos for a month and joined us on the boat for a week. Stuart Dawson has joined us today to do the long Pacific crossing to the Marquesas.
The boat jobs do not stop. Helen very kindly went up the mast to polish the shrouds -what a star because this is not a popular job. Julian and Bill, from Krabat, fitted a aft roller so we can use a stern anchor more easily. We have taken our torn (again) code zero sail to be mended on Santa Cruz. No posh sail loft here but a rather rough football pitch to roll the sail out on. We suspect the sail repair man is more of a cobbler, but he has a machine and some material, and for what we feel is rather an expensive price, seems willing and is probably competent – needs must.’
We are now preparing for the long voyage to the Marquesas. This will be 3000 NM and our longest non stop trip so far. We expect it to take about 20 days. Amazingly we are looking forward to it!
Limited broadband has meant smaller and fewer photos than usual in this post.
We set of from Panama City about 10 days ago and our now in Galapagos. I can’t include many photos as the internet is very slow here.
We enjoyed Panama City but after a final provisioning trip we were, as always glad to be moving again. We were looking forward to getting back to the islands after nearly a month near Colon and in Panama City.
The first stop after Panama City is the Las Perlas Islands about 50 miles south. We needed to do a final clean of our hull to ensure it was good enough for the Galapagos and we hoped the water was cleaner here than in Panama City. We thought the water temperature at 22c was rather cool but with wet suits on and deep breathes we got on with the job! We also visited a little settlement on one of the islands but this was very remote and although friendly we were definitely the tourist attraction!
The trip of 6 days to the Galapagos was uneventful and we were pleased to only motor for 30 hours out of 150 hours. This trip goes through the doldrums and is notorious for poor winds. Sadly our code zero which did a fantastic job in the light winds has ripped. We are hopeful we can get it mended here in Galapagos as we will miss it on the long trip to the Marquesas. You are supposed to celebrate crossing the Equator but for us it was 9.30 in the morning and after night watches that didn’t seem like a great idea. We allowed ourselves a glass of wine with supper, which we do not usually do on passage.
We were expecting a thorough bio security inspection on arrival in Galapagos and we had spent considerable time ensuring our hull was clean, the boat clean, no raw meat, no vegetables, many labels, numerous waste disposal bins. Clearing in was an experience. 9 officials got on board. No divers – they are all sick, apparently. It took about 1 hour and it was not really clear who was doing what. They checked our safety equipment and our paper chart, which covers the whole “other side of the world”, was deemed to be sufficient for emergency navigation. I fear there is much process, officialdom and corresponding checking but little real or useful rigour. We are all for sensible bio security but when you actually see what is happening on land we, as cruisers, are not the real risk.
We are just feeling a little underwhelmed by Galapagos at the moment. I know – first world problem. The cruising is very restricted and everything costs money. Perhaps we have just been spoilt and have become used to such freedom. Truthfully we are yet to see amazing wildlife but hopefully that will come. The sea lions at San Cristobal are great to watch and do get everywhere and that includes our swimming platform. Unfortunately sea lions do what sea lions do, and they are very smelly! Julian spent a good hour, moaning and grumbling, cleaning after them! Our defences have been reinforced!
I still have to pinch myself to remember we really are in Panama and looking at the vast Pacific Ocean.
The marina in Colon, Shelter Bay, was a hive of activity and very much reminded me of the Canaries when we were preparing to go across the Atlantic 18 months ago. Amount half the boats were preparing to go through the Canal and cross the Pacific. There are all manner of things to do – be measured by the Canal authorities to allow us to go through the Canal; organise line handlers – 4 required; remove solar panels so that they cannot interfere with the lines which will keep us out of trouble in the Canal; our code zero needed some attention from the sail makers; the boat was hauled out in Linton and pressure washed to ensure it is clean for Galapagos; engine and generator check; provisioning and a clean and polish.
Our good friends Bill and Moira from Krabat, Allen and Maria from Lady Jane and Jana and JD plus their boys from Jajapami were all in the marina waiting to go through the canal so it was not all jobs and we did find some time to be social. Yoga started at 8 am, we had a great nature walk in the jungle near the marina – the birds are hard to photograph and the sounds are fabulous particularly the howler monkeys. We joined a talk on the Pacific Islands and we took the opportunity to check out the Gatun locks in advance of our trip. Caryn Canfield from USA who we had met on the Chesapeake rally joined us for the Canal trip.
We have installed a large CO2 canister on the back of the boat so we can have ad-lib sparkling water. I think we must have a five years supply of CO2! Caryn made a very smart neoprene cover.
We repacked the series drogue. This is a series of 124 fabric cones which we can trail behind boat to slower her up in seriously bad weather – hopefully it will remain packed up!
Panama will be the last serious shopping opportunity for about four months so I have created a comprehensive spreadsheet of stores in the hope that not too much runs out. We took the marina bus to Colon a couple of times for the hour long, bone shaking ride and a taxi ride home with our massive shop.
Finally the day for the Canal arrived but Julian had lost a crown from one of his front teeth the night before. Our wonderful dentist in the UK, Chris Bocking, confirmed that if it was not painful it would wait until we return to UK next. Very fortuitously however, Julian had met a German cruising dentist at the marina, and he very kindly replaced the crown in the morning.
So with long four 125m lines, big fenders, and professional line handler, Gutti, we were ready to go and wait at the anchorage for the Canal pilot. We were also joined by our friend Peter Smith who we met in Jamaica. Peter has been sailing the world for the past 20 years in his hugely impressive aluminium boat, Kiwi Roa. Peter is also the designer of the Rocna anchor. Gutti had played football for Panama’s national team – I think he was rather disappointed at our lack of football knowledge. Our best effort was to show him where Manchester was on the map which I suspect he already knew! He was a delightful young man and is now studying Economics and Law at Panama University. We waited three hours for our pilot or advisor as they are called here to arrive. Transiting the Canal is a precision exercise but there still does seem a fair bit of waiting around and time for some great photo opportunities!
The Gatun locks (three in a row going up) came up quickly and we were told to raft up to a French boat and an Australian boat and followed in behind a large tanker. The line handlers then keep the raft in the centre of the lock as the water rises. It does sound simple but it is quite an experience, hard work and completing the three locks took about two hours.
We spent the night attached to the biggest bouy we have ever seen in the Gatun lake. Our new advisers Jerry and Giovanni arrived the next morning and we then travelled for about four hours across the Gatun lake to the Gaillard Cut and the three downward locks – Pedro Miguel Locks and Miraflores Locks. We learnt that The Australia boat had somehow drifted out of the channel and run aground – apparently no serious damage but they were now behind and unable to join us.
For the next locks we attached to the French boat which attached to a small tourist boat and they looked after the shore lines. This was much easier. There was one last drama when the French boat failed to attach their stern line to the tourist boat and did a full pirouette at the front of the lock gates. They were now right up against the gates, facing the wrong way and against the wall – a very bad place to be! The water was dropped and somehow the advisers and line handlers managed to turn the boat – these guys are very skilled.
The locks over, we motored past the Panama docks, returned the hired lines and buoys, the advisors were collected and Gutti and Peter left the boat. We then went under the Bridge of The Americas and finally into our marina in Panama City.
We were tired but elated – it had been a fantastic trip unlike anything else we have experienced. Pacific here we come!
We are heading to Colon tomorrow. We will have to wait there (probably for about 10 days) while the boat is measured and we get our slot for going through the Canal. We have plenty of boat jobs and provisioning to do. We really enjoyed the San Blas but as always, are excited about moving on and going through the Canal is definitely on the bucket list.
We had great fishing on our sail from the San Blas up the coast. One tuna and one baby (thankfully) shark. We returned the shark to the sea but were pleased to have tuna for supper and fill the freezer!
While hanging out next to idyllic Islands is delightful we did feel we should see the jungle and some native villages. The Guna Yala region has some of the most untouched virgin rainforest in the world. Stores were getting very low and there were promises of shops in Nargana. This large village was billed as being the most “advanced” community in our guide book and where the residents have decided to give up the traditional Guna way of life; but I can assure you this is all relative.
In Nargana we did manage a meal out. This was a real treat – basic fare, slightly chaotic but good all the same. There was also excellent broadband and we were able to purchase SIM cards. Although rather ramshackle there were satellites, TV, a tiny airport and a health centre.
Traditional hut complete with Satellite
When we arrived the shopping was really dire – a few over ripe tomatoes and bananas. The supply boat was due the next day and, thankfully it did arrive but shopping on the supply boat was a whole new experience! There really is no basic hygiene, and we watched as a raw chicken was chopped up on the top of the cool box (no refrigeration here) and the very same knife then used to cut up an orange. These guys clearly have a tougher constitution than us, and we opted for just whole vegetables and some lovely Guna bread.
In Nargana we were curious to see many dugouts full of barrels heading up the river each day and returning heavily laden. It turned out these little boats were getting fresh water from up the river. One island (there are two joined by a bridge) has running water from a stand pipe and the other does not. It seems interesting to us that people have satellite TV but no running water. Perhaps when time is less limited this is a better option but it looks jolly hard work.
We visited Isla Maquina which is a much more traditional village with a guide named Idelfonso. He spoke reasonable English which he had learnt from a book and with his family had purchased his panga (motor boat) for $14,000. This would be a huge sum of money and we had to give him top marks for his entrepreneurial spirit but he remained very proud of his culture and way of life. It was excellent to see how these people live in such a simple way – sleeping in hammocks, cooking on open fires, very few processions, and experts on re-using just about anything.
We did have two great hikes up the river Rio Diablo with Bill and Moira, and a second one from Gaiger with our guide, Idelfonso. This was serious jungle hiking including rickety bridges, river crossings and it was very hot. We had been given dire warnings of dangerous snakes, frogs and panthers the previous evening so Julian was prepared with machete and bear pepper spray! Fortunately these were not needed.
Ready with the machete
Just as we were getting a little relaxed on our return dinghy trip down the river we saw a large crocodile! I was just taking a photo of the little banana plantation, and had not noticed the crocodile, until it slid into the water! We were all of 5 metres away! but imagined how thrilled I was when I discovered I actually had the photo to evidence the encounter.
What a spot for lunch – we felt like intrepid explorers!
The San Blas Islands are a vast archipelago on Panama’s Caribbean coast composed of over 300 islands. Some are inhabited but many not. We had never heard about them before but they are a popular, in a remote kind of way, cruising area particularly for those going onto the Canal and the Pacific. The Islands are home to the delightful indigenous Guna Indians who have preserved their culture and traditions, and live in a very simple way. They have no electricity except maybe a solar panel, no running water, and sleep in hammocks. Life seems very relaxed. They have certainly given us food for thought.
The Islands are idyllic, but the people really make the area. There seems to be a symbiotic relationship between the Guna’s and cruisers which appears to work. They like our dollars and we really appreciate the veggie boat, the lobsters and the molas! Quite what they think of our sophisticated boats and inability to catch our own lobsters we do not know, and possibly that is a good thing!
We have met up with Bill and Moira on s/y Krabat, Allen and Maria on s/y Lady Jane and Jana and Jan-Dirk on s/y Jajapami and we are loosely cruising together. These are all friends from our Jimmy Cornell rally who are travelling through the Canal and onto the Pacific.
One day a Guna came out to our boat and via some good sign language we understood that one of the men on the island had cut their hand badly with a machete. We offered plasters, bandages as you would, but this was not going to do. Our friends on Jajapami could speak Spanish and that was certainly going to help so Julian took the injured Guna to Jana on Jajapami, and she did an excellent first aid job and they then ferried the chap in their Catamaran to the nearest hospital the next day. He had 7 stitches for a severed artery. It was great to be able to help.
As you would expect the snorkelling has been great, although climbing/slithering over the reef at Green Island proved a serious challenge which we probably will not repeat.
This place is really remote and the last time we really provisioned was in the USA at the beginning of December. Our stores are getting very low and there are no shops here so when you see fresh fruit and vegetables you buy! There is a little bit of moaning from the captain about his rather plain diet.
There always seems to be a dog living with the families. We were most entertained to see this dog dig up a crab. I guess when there are no rabbits, moles, rats or other small vermin what can you do. It seemed an uneven fight but the crab won the day!
We are kept well supplied with lobster and they are excellent. What a treat!
I have really enjoyed admiring the molas made by the Guna ladies. They come out in the canoes to sell them or display them at their huts. These pass Julian by, but they are very beautiful appliqué with embroidery on top. Quite how they do this without glasses and light I do not know. I will reluctantly limit myself to two!
We arrived in Panama last night after 5 days of sailing from Jamaica. We have had better long sails. Leaving Jamaica we were close-hauled in big lumpy seas and it took us a long time to round the eastern corner of Jamaica; we then had a current against us and some very light winds. We managed to use all sail configurations – wing on wing, spinnaker and code zero and of course main and jib. So much choice these days! Approaching both Panama and Jamaica is certainly dramatic and we could see the mountains some way of the coast. Jamaica was a convenient stopping spot as opposed to a destination in its own right. Port Antonio marina is tiny but known to be secure and well located.
Port Antonio in Jamaica is definitely colourful, and Julian reckons that you can get high just walking down the street as there is that much dope being smoked. While I do not think we were in any great danger, the hustling proved annoying and at at times difficult. These guys are good and hustling ranged from thoroughly unpleasant to eccentric, to charming. We were certainly charmed, and are now owners of a little bowl of dubious quality which will remind us of Jamaica. I guess we will just get used to it. Buying at the fruit and vegetable market was also a challenge and I am quite certain we were always on the wrong side of the negotiation – these guys saw us coming! On the plus side the fruit and vegetables were of good quality and we had some new things to try. It is hard to know if Port Antonio is the “real” Jamaica but it was certainly not on the tourist trail. It was scruffy, endless shacks, dead cars and rubbish, numerous stray dogs, continuous noise, people playing dominoes, drinking and dope smoking everywhere. The plus side was the street food and we did have some excellent jerk chicken and festivals which are a sort of fried banana dough.
In the marina we were a select few – one chap from Florida was on his second circumnavigation and on his way home, and Peter Smith and Marlyse on the mighty KiwiRoa who were great company. Peter had built KiwiRoa himself, is a font of knowledge and has sailed in all the very tricky places in the world. The yacht was amazing and very tough. Peter also designed the Rocna which is a great bit of ground tackle and the one we use. Peter was generous with his advice and Julian now has an even longer job list!
We were thrilled that our friends Bill and Moira on Krabat arrived in Panama in the morning after six days sailing from Bonaire. They had an interesting time anchoring and managed to find someone else’s lost chain and anchor! The neighbouring boats were delighted – Bill and Moria less so!
It is extremely exciting reaching Panama, and we very much look forward to exploring the San Blas Islands and surrounds, before heading to Colon and the Panama Canal.