The San Blas Islands

The San Blas Islands are a vast archipelago on Panama’s Caribbean coast composed of over 300 islands. Some are inhabited but many not. We had never heard about them before but they are a popular, in a remote kind of way, cruising area particularly for those going onto the Canal and the Pacific. The Islands are home to the delightful indigenous Guna Indians who have preserved their culture and traditions, and live in a very simple way. They have no electricity except maybe a solar panel, no running water, and sleep in hammocks. Life seems very relaxed. They have certainly given us food for thought.

The Islands are idyllic, but the people really make the area. There seems to be a symbiotic relationship between the Guna’s and cruisers which appears to work. They like our dollars and we really appreciate the veggie boat, the lobsters and the molas! Quite what they think of our sophisticated boats and inability to catch our own lobsters we do not know, and possibly that is a good thing!

We have met up with Bill and Moira on s/y Krabat, Allen and Maria on s/y Lady Jane and Jana and Jan-Dirk on s/y Jajapami and we are loosely cruising together. These are all friends from our Jimmy Cornell rally who are travelling through the Canal and onto the Pacific.

One day a Guna came out to our boat and via some good sign language we understood that one of the men on the island had cut their hand badly with a machete. We offered plasters, bandages as you would, but this was not going to do. Our friends on Jajapami could speak Spanish and that was certainly going to help so Julian took the injured Guna to Jana on Jajapami, and she did an excellent first aid job and they then ferried the chap in their Catamaran to the nearest hospital the next day. He had 7 stitches for a severed artery. It was great to be able to help.

As you would expect the snorkelling has been great, although climbing/slithering over the reef at Green Island proved a serious challenge which we probably will not repeat.

This place is really remote and the last time we really provisioned was in the USA at the beginning of December. Our stores are getting very low and there are no shops here so when you see fresh fruit and vegetables you buy! There is a little bit of moaning from the captain about his rather plain diet.

There always seems to be a dog living with the families. We were most entertained to see this dog dig up a crab. I guess when there are no rabbits, moles, rats or other small vermin what can you do. It seemed an uneven fight but the crab won the day!

We are kept well supplied with lobster and they are excellent. What a treat!

I have really enjoyed admiring the molas made by the Guna ladies. They come out in the canoes to sell them or display them at their huts. These pass Julian by, but they are very beautiful appliqué with embroidery on top. Quite how they do this without glasses and light I do not know. I will reluctantly limit myself to two!