More Maine – beautiful sailing boats and stunning scenery

It is a truly miserable day here in Maine – rain followed by fog and rain, and now just rain. We are in a beautiful, isolated anchorage, all on our own except for the lobster pots, on Roque Island about 20 miles from Canada. This is as far north as we will go and we will travel south again tomorrow weather allowing. We are not really used to this, albeit the weather in Maine is cooler and more variable.

Lobster pots continue to be everywhere, described as carpets of lobster traps, and make sailing really hard work – they will be an abiding memory of Maine. That said eating lobster has become mundane! It is treated as the local fish and chips and happily served up on paper plates! I do wonder how the lobster population can be sustained at this level of fishing but, that said, I did make a Lobster Thermidor and with a dry white wine it made a really excellent supper!

After the delightful Round Pond we headed to the Penobscot Bay. This area has it all – isolated anchorages, family holiday spots and a fabulous array of beautiful wooden boats presumably owned by the high rollers! A Capella was anchored in some very good company. Julian and Peter attended a fascinating talk and film presented by the team who restored the Herreshoff New York 40 racing boat Marylee – they deduced that this was hard work, time consuming and an extremely expensive hobby and solely the preserve of very wealthy Americans. We visited Camden, Perry Creek, Belfast, and sailed down the Eggemoggin Reach to arrive at Central Harbor. At Central Harbor we toured the Brooklyn Boat Yard, a wooden boat builder – the relaxed attitude suggested that price was not an issue when building these boats!

Belfast -Maine, just had to be visited but is described as “off the beaten track” in our pilot book but actually we thought it was very pleasant and thoroughly enjoyed our stay. It is more industrial and business like than its southern neighbours and, true to form, it was raining when we arrived, but we had a great walk through the shipyard, up the high street and across the river. It also had a good grocery store which was reasonably priced – a rarity in this area. We were, of course hoping that the town had been founded and named after an intrepid explorer from Belfast but no, apparently they tossed a coin and an Irish man won and named the place Belfast as opposed New Berlin if the German had won! The city’s prosperity was built on shipbuilding and commerce in cargoes of hay, ice, apples and fertiliser. Interestingly there is also a Rockport and Bangor nearby. I had a lovely walk up the old railroad of the Belfast to Moosehead Lake Railhead – don’t you just love the names.

Finally we arrived in Northeast Harbor on Mount Desert Island. This was to be Uncle Peter’s destination after an amazing trip all the way from Boston. This is home of the Acadia National Park and yet another fabulous setting and with great hiking. As ever Uncle Peter had been great company, a keen look out for lobster pots and we were sorry to see him go.

Charles and Dani Reekie joined us for a weekend and we stopped in Winter Harbor where we saw Lobster boat racing – boys and their toys! It was definitely preferable to view this from afar. There was no wind so we rather drifted around the area, anchored off Cranberry island, motored up the Somes Sound and they left us from Southwest Harbor. A lovely weekend of great chat and good eating.

We stayed a further few days in South West harbor as Julian had sprained his knee and we were still waiting for wind to arrive. I had some great hiking in the mountains and we met up with our German friends from S/Y Greyhound.


I have been unable to send the blog due to lack of internet. A problem even in the land of plenty. Having travelled south we are now in the most delightful harbor on the tiny Island of Matinicus. We saw our first whale on the way in which was really exciting. The harbor is dominated by lobster boats which do start early, but it just had to be lobster a A Capella for supper.

6 thoughts on “More Maine – beautiful sailing boats and stunning scenery”

  1. Lovely to catch up on your adventures and your writing paints a picture of those towns and places beautifully ..
    Rain here in the early hours of Thursday morning 0231.. and so say set to be cooler for the BH, so you are not alone .. enjoy as always


  2. I worry about Julian he looks tired of Lobster. The trials of ocean cruising! Looks fantastic I hope you are going to ‘touch’ Canada to add another country to your list. English summer just starting to wane, a bit of drizzle today but still T-shirt weather. Look forward to the next installment. Oliver


    1. Maria – it is just plain hard but basically you just have to pick them off one at a time – it is very hard work and not very relaxing! Even going far out there are pots – not so many but there is no putting the AIS alarm, reading a book and peering out occasionally! Now travelling south and hoping to go through CC canal early next week so perhaps we will catch up.


  3. The trip from Metropolitan Boston to remote Bar Harbour Island was the trip of a lifetime. I have dined out on my photos and stories, a great treat even if we didn’t eat lobster in this Belfast.
    I was bowled over by the beauty of Maine’s sailing waters, and the friendliness of the locals.
    Many thanks to Patricia and Julian for a superb holiday.


  4. Liked the photo of Uncle Peter in Belfast – of course it was raining, what else did you expect in Belfast! Good to see that their shipyards are working and employing people, no Samson or Goliath, I take it. You’re obviously in lobster heaven, so enjoy them while you can, they must be truly plentiful in Maine. Getting cooler and wetter here, just as well, we badly need the rain, grass is finally turning green again, most of the wheat seems to have been cut, leaves are starting to drift down, kids are returning to school.


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