It is a truly miserable day here in Maine – rain followed by fog and rain, and now just rain. We are in a beautiful, isolated anchorage, all on our own except for the lobster pots, on Roque Island about 20 miles from Canada. This is as far north as we will go and we will travel south again tomorrow weather allowing. We are not really used to this, albeit the weather in Maine is cooler and more variable.
Lobster pots continue to be everywhere, described as carpets of lobster traps, and make sailing really hard work – they will be an abiding memory of Maine. That said eating lobster has become mundane! It is treated as the local fish and chips and happily served up on paper plates! I do wonder how the lobster population can be sustained at this level of fishing but, that said, I did make a Lobster Thermidor and with a dry white wine it made a really excellent supper!
After the delightful Round Pond we headed to the Penobscot Bay. This area has it all – isolated anchorages, family holiday spots and a fabulous array of beautiful wooden boats presumably owned by the high rollers! A Capella was anchored in some very good company. Julian and Peter attended a fascinating talk and film presented by the team who restored the Herreshoff New York 40 racing boat Marylee – they deduced that this was hard work, time consuming and an extremely expensive hobby and solely the preserve of very wealthy Americans. We visited Camden, Perry Creek, Belfast, and sailed down the Eggemoggin Reach to arrive at Central Harbor. At Central Harbor we toured the Brooklyn Boat Yard, a wooden boat builder – the relaxed attitude suggested that price was not an issue when building these boats!
Belfast -Maine, just had to be visited but is described as “off the beaten track” in our pilot book but actually we thought it was very pleasant and thoroughly enjoyed our stay. It is more industrial and business like than its southern neighbours and, true to form, it was raining when we arrived, but we had a great walk through the shipyard, up the high street and across the river. It also had a good grocery store which was reasonably priced – a rarity in this area. We were, of course hoping that the town had been founded and named after an intrepid explorer from Belfast but no, apparently they tossed a coin and an Irish man won and named the place Belfast as opposed New Berlin if the German had won! The city’s prosperity was built on shipbuilding and commerce in cargoes of hay, ice, apples and fertiliser. Interestingly there is also a Rockport and Bangor nearby. I had a lovely walk up the old railroad of the Belfast to Moosehead Lake Railhead – don’t you just love the names.
Finally we arrived in Northeast Harbor on Mount Desert Island. This was to be Uncle Peter’s destination after an amazing trip all the way from Boston. This is home of the Acadia National Park and yet another fabulous setting and with great hiking. As ever Uncle Peter had been great company, a keen look out for lobster pots and we were sorry to see him go.
Charles and Dani Reekie joined us for a weekend and we stopped in Winter Harbor where we saw Lobster boat racing – boys and their toys! It was definitely preferable to view this from afar. There was no wind so we rather drifted around the area, anchored off Cranberry island, motored up the Somes Sound and they left us from Southwest Harbor. A lovely weekend of great chat and good eating.
We stayed a further few days in South West harbor as Julian had sprained his knee and we were still waiting for wind to arrive. I had some great hiking in the mountains and we met up with our German friends from S/Y Greyhound.
I have been unable to send the blog due to lack of internet. A problem even in the land of plenty. Having travelled south we are now in the most delightful harbor on the tiny Island of Matinicus. We saw our first whale on the way in which was really exciting. The harbor is dominated by lobster boats which do start early, but it just had to be lobster a A Capella for supper.